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On the road again - 3 - Exmoor, part 3 - A walk to Lynton

Updated: Apr 1, 2022

Steve Knox, a mate who often visited me wherever I was parked in West Cornwall, usually late at night, due to his work, turned up. He had decided that he fancied a little road trip. Steve is great. We often chat for ages in the wee hours about all sorts, particularly sport. He owns a security business, looking after various clients premises at night.

I think my favourite story is that I, an Englishman, introduced the virtues of whisky to him, a Scotsman! Steve explained that his dad had the attitude that whisky is whisky, it’s all the same, so drank the cheap shit. As a result, Steve didn’t like the whisky his dad had. “Absolute nonsense!” I exclaimed, “Try this.” and passed him a glass of my favourite tipple. Needless to say, Steve was pleasantly surprised ... and hooked. He now has a taste for good whisky and we have enjoyed a wee dram together on a number of occasions.

Steve mentioned the journey from Cornwall, saying that it was long and tedious. I said, “See that road out there.” pointing to the main road, “That’s the A39. The same road that starts and ends in Falmouth.” Steve lives in Falmouth. “Just turn left onto it as you leave here and keep on it. You won’t be disappointed.” When he left, he did just that. Steve ‘phoned me the next day and thanked me. He really enjoyed the trip back. The A39 is a really enjoyable road to drive.

One day I said to Dom that I would walk to town and meet him at the shop for a lift back. The walk is probably about four miles, but is difficult terrain.

I crossed the main road to pick up the footpath that follows Hoaroak Water, the river that flows down from up on the moor and under the bridge outside Dom’s home to Watersmeet.

Here, the Hoaroak flows into the East Lyn River.

The footpath along the bank of the river gets more challenging from here on in. One section passes beneath overhanging rocks and is particularly slippery.

The river is full of rocks and debris carried down from the moor. As a result, there are rapids most of the way.

I passed by the remains of a mineral factory that had been a victim of the Great Flood. Eventually, I crossed a bridge called Lyn Rock Bridge and continued on the opposite bank.

The path became easier towards the end where it exits onto a road with large houses interspersed with B&Bs overlooking the river.

I crossed over the road bridge, followed by the bridge crossing the West Lyn River just short of where the two Lyn rivers converge, and walked into the town of Lynmouth, past the vernacular railway to Lynton above.

I walked along the coast until I could go no farther. I then climbed up through the woods. The path is narrow and very, very steep with several hairpin turns. It was exhausting! But a great view from the top.

From there, it’s a short walk to the shop where I had a well earned cup of tea!

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